When planning a camping trip with portable power, you need to know how much electricity each appliance draws. This camping appliance wattage chart lists typical wattage ranges for common gear, from phones to induction plates. Use it to estimate your daily energy needs and choose the right power station or solar panel.

How to use this chart

The numbers in this chart are typical ranges, not exact specifications. Every device model differs, so always check the label or manual on your own gear. When in doubt, use the higher end of the range for a more conservative estimate. This approach gives you a safety margin and helps avoid running out of power.

For example, a small fan might be listed at 10–40 watts. If you have a compact USB fan, assume closer to 10 watts; for a larger 12V fan, plan for 30–40 watts. The chart is a starting point for building a daily watt-hour budget.

Low-power devices

These devices draw the least power and can run for many hours on a modest battery. They are typically powered by USB or a 12V accessory port.

  • Smartphone: 5–15 watts (charging). A phone draws more when fast-charging, but the total energy per full charge is roughly 10–20 watt-hours.
  • Tablet: 10–30 watts while charging.
  • LED camp lights: 5–20 watts, depending on brightness and number of bulbs.
  • Small USB fan: 5–15 watts.
  • Bluetooth speaker: 5–20 watts while playing.
  • E-reader: 2–5 watts while charging.

Example: If you charge a phone (10 watts) for 2 hours and run a 10-watt light for 4 hours, that totals 20 Wh + 40 Wh = 60 Wh per day from these devices.

Medium loads

Medium-draw appliances require more power and are commonly used in vans, RVs, and larger camping setups. They often run on AC through an inverter or directly on 12V.

Device Type Typical Running Watts (range) Notes
Laptop 45–90 watts During use; lower when charging battery, higher under load.
12V compressor fridge 40–60 watts while running Runs only part of the time; the daily average is much lower.
Heated blanket 30–75 watts (low setting) to 100–150 watts (high setting) Low setting is typical for overnight use.
CPAP machine (without heated humidifier) 30–60 watts With heated humidifier, can reach 60–120 watts.
12V TV / monitor 30–60 watts Screen size and brightness affect draw.

A 12V compressor fridge is one of the most important loads for extended camping. Because the compressor runs only part of the time, the average draw is well below the running watts. For example, a fridge that draws 50 watts while running and runs 40% of the time averages about 20 watts, or roughly 480 Wh per day. Check the manufacturer’s typical energy consumption label if available.

High-wattage appliances

These appliances draw large amounts of power, often over 1,000 watts. They can only be powered by sizeable battery systems with a pure sine wave inverter that can handle their peak surge. Running them for more than a few minutes will deplete a small power station quickly.

  • Electric kettle: 1,000–1,800 watts.
  • Drip coffee maker: 600–1,200 watts while brewing; keep-warm function is much lower.
  • Induction cooktop: 1,200–1,800 watts on full heat.
  • Hair dryer: 1,000–1,875 watts (low/high settings).
  • Space heater (electric): 750–1,500 watts.
  • Microwave (small): 700–1,200 watts (cooking power); actual input may be higher.

Because these appliances demand high power, you need a large battery and an inverter whose continuous rating is above the appliance’s wattage. For a deeper discussion on running coffee makers and kettles at camp, see Can You Run a Coffee Maker, Kettle or Induction Cooktop at Camp?.

Example: Making one cup of coffee with a 1,000-watt kettle for 3 minutes uses about 50 Wh (1,000 W × 0.05 hours). That same 1,000 watts running for an hour would consume 1,000 Wh, which is a large fraction of many portable power stations.

Motors and surge

Some appliances contain motors that require more power to start than to run. This startup surge can be 2–3 times the rated running watts for a split second. Devices with surge include:

  • Refrigerator and freezer compressors (commonly 2–3x running watts).
  • Pumps (water pumps, air pumps).
  • Small power tools (drills, saws).
  • Vacuum cleaners.

When selecting a power station or inverter, check the surge or peak watt rating. Most modern inverters can handle a brief surge of about 2x the continuous rating. For example, a fridge with a 70-watt running draw might surge to 200 watts on startup. Your inverter must be able to supply that surge for a second or two. If the surge exceeds the inverter’s peak, the fridge may not start.

Always verify your specific appliance’s surge requirement from the manual or by using a watt meter. Many power stations list both continuous and surge watts. When in doubt, choose an inverter rated at least 2–3 times the running wattage of motor-driven devices.

Finding your device rating

The chart above gives typical ranges, but your actual device may differ. To know for sure, find the power rating on the device itself:

  1. Look for a label near the power cord or on the back/bottom. It usually shows watts (W) or amps (A) and volts (V).
  2. If only amps are given, multiply by the voltage. For example, a 120V AC appliance labeled 5 amps: 5 × 120 = 600 watts. For a 12V DC device (like a car fan), multiply amps by 12.
  3. For variable devices like heated blankets or CPAP machines, check the manual for the maximum draw on each setting.
  4. The most accurate method is to use a plug-in watt meter. Simply plug the device into a plug-in watt meter and then into the power source. The meter will show real-time watts while the device runs, plus cumulative energy over time. This is especially helpful for fridges that cycle on and off.

Once you have your device’s measured watts, you can use the values in the budget calculation that follows.

Turning watts into a daily budget

Knowing the wattage of each appliance is only half the picture. You also need to estimate how many hours per day you will run each device. Multiply watts by hours to get watt-hours (Wh). Then adjust for inverter losses and usable battery capacity to find what size battery you need.

Step 1: List your devices, their typical watts, and estimated daily run time.

Example for a weekend trip:

  • 12V compressor fridge: 50 watts × 24 hours × 40% running time = 480 Wh
  • LED camp lights (two): 10 watts × 5 hours = 50 Wh
  • Smartphone charging: 10 watts × 2 hours = 20 Wh
  • Laptop for 3 hours: 60 watts × 3 hours = 180 Wh
  • Small fan overnight: 15 watts × 8 hours = 120 Wh

Total before inverter: 480 + 50 + 20 + 180 + 120 = 850 Wh

Step 2: Account for inverter losses.

If you are using devices that plug into a standard AC outlet, the power station’s inverter converts DC battery power to AC. This conversion is not 100% efficient; a common rule of thumb is about 85–90% efficiency. To find how much energy the battery must supply, divide the AC loads by the inverter efficiency.

In this example, the fridge, lights and phone run on DC, and the laptop and fan run on AC. AC loads = laptop (180 Wh) + fan (120 Wh) = 300 Wh. With 85% inverter efficiency, the battery must supply 300 ÷ 0.85 ≈ 353 Wh for those items. The DC loads are 480 + 50 + 20 = 550 Wh. Total from the battery = 353 + 550 = 903 Wh.

Step 3: Factor in usable battery capacity.

Not all the rated capacity of a battery can be used. For lithium-ion power stations, you can typically use 80–100% of the rated capacity, depending on the model’s management system. For lead-acid batteries, you should only use 50% of the rated capacity to avoid damage. Check the manufacturer’s recommendations.

If you have a lithium power station with 90% usable capacity, divide the daily battery draw by 0.9 to find the minimum rated capacity. 903 ÷ 0.9 ≈ 1,003 Wh. So you would need a power station rated at around 1,000 Wh for a full day without recharging. For a lead-acid system with 50% usable, you would need about 1,806 Wh of rated battery capacity.

Step 4: Recharge plan.

This daily budget helps you decide if solar panels or a generator can keep up. If you plan to rely solely on battery, size it for your longest stretch between charges. For more help with runtime calculations, see How Long Will a Power Station Last at Camp? Runtime Math With Examples.

For a full guide on building a daily watt-hour budget from scratch, visit How Much Power Do You Need for Camping? A Daily Watt-Hour Budget.

FAQ

What is the difference between running watts and surge watts?

Running watts are the steady power a device needs to operate. Surge watts are the short burst of extra power required to start a motor or compressor. Surge can be 2–3 times the running watts for a fraction of a second. Your inverter must be capable of that surge, even if only briefly.

How do I find the wattage of my appliance?

Check the nameplate or label on the device for watts (W) or amps (A) and volts (V). Multiply amps by volts to get watts. If the label only shows amps and the voltage is standard (120V in the US), the formula is simple. For variable devices, look at the manual or use a plug-in watt meter to measure real consumption.

Can I run a hair dryer on a portable power station?

You can, but only if the power station can handle the hair dryer’s running watts (typically 1,000–1,875 watts) and its startup surge. Many portable power stations have a continuous rating below the hair dryer’s draw, so a high-wattage hair dryer may trip the inverter. Even if it works, a 1,500-watt hair dryer running for 10 minutes uses about 250 Wh, which quickly drains a small battery. For heavy loads like hair dryers, you may need a large power station or a dedicated generator.

Why does a 12V fridge use less power than a mini fridge at home?

12V compressor fridges are designed for efficient operation on limited power. They use high-quality insulation and efficient compressors, and they often operate on DC directly without inverter losses. In contrast, an AC mini fridge at home may have less insulation and an older compressor, and it must run through an inverter in a camping setup, adding conversion losses. Over a day, a 12V compressor fridge in mild weather often averages only a few tens of watts, while a compact AC fridge running through an inverter usually uses more.

Use this chart as a starting point, but always verify your own gear’s ratings. With a realistic daily energy budget, you can confidently select a power station and solar panels for your next camping trip.

Garrett Bradford

About Garrett Bradford

Garrett covers off-grid power for camping, rv & vanlife, comparing specs, features and long-term owner feedback to help readers choose with confidence.